Just as there are no identical faces, there is no single eyebrow shape that suits everyone. There is no template!
An eyebrow specialist can (and must!) acquire the necessary knowledge about the architecture of the eyebrows: what to start from when constructing a sketch, what external data to pay attention to. And be able to create the correct, ideal form for any type of appearance. How to achieve such results? How to choose the shape of the eyebrows on the type of the face? Let’s get to the bottom of this difficult topic.
How to shape the eyebrows?
The most obvious method is correction. Also, makeup products, dyeing or henna dyeing (again with the subsequent removal of excess hairs) and eyebrow nano spraying can help with this.
These manipulations can be done, as they say, by eye. But such an approach is safe only in the case of makeup. But if we are talking about hair removal and eyebrow coloring, not to mention any kind of tattooing, the test of their own eyeballs can end very poorly. That is why even experienced eyebrow specialists recommend drawing a sketch or at least outlining the reference points of the form before the correction or coloring procedure.
To build an eyebrow, you need to find at least three main points: the beginning, the highest point and the tip of the eyebrow.
- The beginning (or head of the eyebrow) is the point at the bridge of the nose, from which the eyebrow actually begins.
- The highest point (bend, curve point, point of highest rise, apex, apex) is the place where the rise of the eyebrow line changes to a descent and narrowing to the tip.
- Tip of the eyebrow (tail) – the point where the eyebrow ends at the temples. Also called the whole part of the eyebrow after the bend.
The area from the beginning to the highest elevation, including it, is called the middle part or the body of the eyebrow. The optimum ratio is 2/3 of the eyebrow – the head and body, and 1/3 – the tail.
By changing the ratio of eyebrow parts to each other and the position of reference points, you can achieve one or another desired effect in the construction of the shape.
Materials and tools for sketching
You can identify the points you want by using thread and a greasy cosmetic pencil or other creamy texture. The thread should be colored, strongly stretched and control points should be marked, using it as a ruler.
The optimal location of the points is as follows:
The base of the eyebrow is in line with the wing of the nose if you place the thread vertically parallel to the bridge of the nose.
- To find the break point, the thread should be pulled up from the wing of the nose through the outer edge of the iris. An obsolete variant – the thread from the base of the nose wing passes through the center of the pupil.
- A line from the wing of the nose through the outer corner of the eye will help find the tip of the eyebrow.
- Another way to determine reference points is to use special ready-made stencils or a ruler for eyebrows.
Stencils, in our opinion, are a rather controversial tool. But a ruler is a very convenient tool not only for a professional eyebrow specialist. It can be recommended to all fans of home procedures, because it greatly facilitates the marking.
The ruler should be placed on the face, as close as possible to the brow arches. Then outline the reference points, using a digital scale.
Masters-professionals often use another tool in their work – the Leonardo compass. With its help it is possible to build eyebrows on the principle of the golden ratio, i.e. using proportional ratios between the reference points. Also it is very convenient to check the symmetry of the eyebrows with the compasses.
And in order not to “pluck” the eyebrows exactly during the correction, to paint them evenly, it is desirable to create a complete sketch with the help of zonal gel or eyebrow paste. When choosing the paste you will also be able to demonstrate to the client the future shape of the eyebrows and, if necessary, make adjustments to the sketch.
Using the paste is very easy. The product has a plastic consistency, easily applied with a flat brush. If necessary, the contour can be effortlessly corrected. Our product range includes the familiar white paste, as well as gold. How to choose? Gold paste is lighter in texture, it creates a bright shining contour around the eyebrows, ideal for those who want to try something new and make a striking photo for their portfolio. The white paste has a denser texture, it is ideal for detailed and clear contouring.
Types of eyebrow shapes
Depending on the location of the reference points in relation to each other are the following types of eyebrows:
- Straight (or horizontal, closed) – the base and tail of the eyebrow lie in one horizontal line. This shape suits the owners of elongated face, as it allows to make it visually wider.
- Ascending (or open) – the base of the eyebrow is just below the tip. A popular type of shape, which allows to give the face a more benevolent expression, as well as visually narrowing it. Also creates the effect of a more open look in case of a narrow cut of the eyes and a drooping eyelid. However, placing the tip of the eyebrow much higher than the beginning can give an unnaturally surprised, hysterical expression to the face.
- Downward-looking – the beginning of the eyebrow above the ponytail, this form is not usually used, as it gives the face a gloomy expression, makes the person visually older.
Eyebrow shapes by curve type
The rounded shape is characterized by a smooth arc-shaped curve without a pronounced apex, rounded beginning and ponytail. Suitable for a square face, it allows hiding excessive “angularity” and coarseness of features, makes the look softer and more feminine.
The triangular shape (so-called “house eyebrows”) is an eyebrow with a pronounced apex. Gives a face an elegant and flirtatious appearance. It is better to entrust the creation of “house” eyebrows to a professional, as if the proportions are not met and/or the bend is too high it is easy to obtain a perpetually amused or “bitchy” look on the face.
Curved shape – also eyebrows with a pronounced bend, but smoother than triangular ones, without harsh drops. If the proportions are correct, this shape suits almost any type of face, visually “youthful” and opens the eye.
Types of eyebrows by width
- Thin ones emphasize femininity. But it is necessary to take into consideration that too thin eyebrows spoil the proportions of the face. Thin eyebrows are not desirable for owners of an overhanging eyelid.
- The return of the eyebrows-threads are feared for the past year, but while the fashion for naturalness still wins, so get carried away plucking, we do not advise.
- Natural – the eyebrows of natural width, the best option and a trend for several seasons already. Wide (a la Cara Delevingne and Lily Collins) – the fashion for VERY wide eyebrows is gradually coming to naught. First of all, not every woman is able to grow these eyebrows, because in this case the natural characteristics play a major role. And secondly, very wide eyebrows look good only on a young face. Mature women may give them a gloomy and stern expression.
Eyebrows by facial type
There are four basic types of face: round, square, triangular, and oval. Three subtypes can also be distinguished – diamond-shaped and pear-shaped (as a variation of the triangular type) and rectangular shape (as a variation of the square type).
If you can not determine the shape of the face just visually, you can use the following method.
It is necessary to remove all the hair back, preferably comb it well in the forehead area and fix it so that it does not rise above the head. The shape of the face should be completely visible from the zone of the beginning of hair growth.
After that, take a photo of the client strictly in full-face. If possible, print this photo in large format.
Next, you should determine the following facial parameters:
- The highest point (center of the forehead) and the lowest point (chin). The distance between these points is the height of the face.
- The width of the forehead is determined by the highest and equidistant points, these are approximately the upper points of the temples.
- The width of the upper cheekbones.
- Width of the lower cheekbones.
For convenience, you can draw lines directly on the photo with a marker. Usually they are already clear enough to conclude how the parameters relate to each other. And if in doubt, you can measure the distance with a ruler or a tape measure.
Ratios for different face types: defining the shape
Oval face: the widest part of the face are the upper cheekbones; the height of the face is more than the width, i.e. the face is elongated vertically; the width of the forehead and the lower cheekbones are practically equal; the upper cheekbones are a little wider than the lower ones; the borders of the face are smooth.
Round face: the widest part of the face is upper cheekbones, but they are expressed unequivocally; the height of the face is not much more than width; width of forehead and lower cheekbones is practically equal; forehead is not high; upper cheekbones are a little wider than lower ones; facial borders are smooth. A round face is very similar to an oval face, but less elongated.
Square face: height of the face is not much more than width; width of forehead, lower cheekbones and upper cheekbones is practically equal; forehead is low; facial borders have rather sharp angles; lower cheekbones are pronounced.
Rectangular face: a variant of the square type, but the height of the face is much greater than the width; the forehead is high and pronounced.
Triangular face: the widest part of the face is the forehead line; height of the face may be more than or equal to its width; width of the forehead is much more than the width of the lower cheekbones and slightly more than the width of the upper cheekbones; usually a fairly pronounced pointed chin.
Pear face (or inverted triangle, Trapezoidal) – the widest part of the face – the line of the lower cheekbones, cheeks have fullness; the height of the face may be greater than or equal to its width; the width of the forehead is noticeably less than the width of the lower cheekbones.
Rhomboid face (or Two triangles, Diamond) – the widest part of the face is the upper cheekbones; narrow forehead and narrow, pointed chin, the width of the forehead and the width of the lower jaw are almost equal; the height of the face may be greater than or equal to the width of the face; the boundaries of the face have quite sharp angles, pronounced lower cheekbones.
It should be kept in mind that most people’s face shape is a combination of two or more types. However, it is always possible to determine the predominant one.
Eyebrow shape for oval face
The oval face is considered the most harmonious. It is desirable to bring all other types closer to the oval, at least visually with the help of eyebrows.
And what about the oval itself? Here you can “play” with different shapes. The ideal variant is a classic eyebrow shape with a soft curve. Look effectively and almost horizontal eyebrows with minimal bending – the so-called eyebrows scouse. It is not desirable to make a sharp “house” bend or very pronounced rounded arches, so as not to further elongate the face.
Eyebrow shape for a round face
Eyebrows should have a clear shape, a pronounced kink and a thin tip. Classic ascending curved eyebrows with a neat apex would work well. Such shape will make facial features more sculptural, will add missing sharpness, graphics and “character”. But the rounded shape is not recommended – facial features can become quite “floaty”. Straight eyebrows without a curve visually “flatten” the face vertically and make the cheeks even wider.
With a round shape of the face it is necessary to avoid too wide as well as very narrow eyebrows. The former would make the face look massive, and the latter would give it a doll-like unnaturalness. Therefore, it is better to opt for a natural width.
Eyebrow shape for square and rectangular face
The shape of the eyebrows should be soft, with a smooth, not too pronounced curve. You can choose rounded eyebrows – they will help to soften the pronounced geometry of the face.
As in the case of a round face, the width of the eyebrows should be maintained. Thin eyebrow threads look unattractive on a square face. They will make its lower part even larger, more massive. However, very wide eyebrows should be avoided as well – they can give an image sloppy and rude.
For a rectangular face it is also desirable to make ascending eyebrows with a soft curve, but rounded arches are not suitable here, as they can further extend the face. It is desirable to lengthen a little bit the tips towards the temples.
Eyebrow shape for a triangular face
With a triangular type of face the eyebrows should be ascending and have a natural curve. Short straight eyebrows are contraindicated, which will further expand the forehead area. Another categorical taboo – the eyebrows “house”. Too sharp an arch will only emphasize the “angularity” of the face.
Excessive width in this case is undesirable, so as not to weigh down the forehead area.
For a pear-shaped face the most suitable variant is wide and dense eyebrows with a curve. They will distract attention from the heavy lower jaw and allow to emphasize the eyes, add visual volume to the forehead and temples. Long tips should be made, and the curve should be shifted closer to the outer corner of the eye – this again works to expand the upper part of the face. To enhance the effect, you can “move” the eyebrows slightly at the bridge of the nose.
For a diamond-shaped face one should choose a classic curved eyebrow shape with a soft smooth curve without being too graphic. As in the case with a triangular face, no “house” eyebrows! Overly rounded forms should be avoided too, as they can emphasize the small width of the forehead, and the face will look comical.
The shape of the eyebrows greatly affects the visual perception of the eyes.
If the eyes are set very close to each other, expanding the area between the eyebrows will make it possible to correct it visually. And in case of wide set eyes the method of rapprochement of eyebrows to the bridge of nose. However, in this case one should be very careful, because too big eyebrows make the look look heavy and the look gloomy.
If the eyes are rounded, rolled out, correcting this feature of the appearance visually will help to position the apices – it must be moved closer to the end of the eyebrow. In no case the highest point of the eyebrow should be in the center, above the pupil. Also rounded and triangular eyebrows with a high bend are contraindicated.
For narrow eyes and an overhanging eyelid, as mentioned above, an ascending eyebrow shape with a slight graceful bend is suitable. The highest point is placed approximately above the outer corner of the eye.
For small eyes it is not necessary to make thick eyebrows – this will further emphasize the lack of appearance. A suitable and harmonious variant is the eyebrows of medium thickness. Accurate rounded eyebrows visually increase the size, if the facial structure allows it.
The shape of the eyebrows should look harmoniously on the face. Therefore it is better to make them thin or of medium width if the features are small. For large features it is better to choose thick eyebrows.
Is it possible to completely change the shape of the eyebrows
As a rule, professionals only slightly correct the natural shape, so that the face remains harmonious and attractive.
However, there are cases when the client believes that “natural” eyebrows on the face look unattractive and “strange”. Here it is very important to distinguish where there really is a “joke of Mother Nature” and where it is only imposed by fashion and media stereotypes. In the second case, it is desirable to gently dissuade from a radical change in shape.
If the client still insists on a completely different shape of eyebrows, for a better understanding of the result, you can use this technique:
- Make the hairs as smooth as possible by using, for example, an eyebrow soap or other fixing agent;
- Apply the tone to the entire surface of the eyebrows, including the hairs, as if erasing the eyebrows from the face, and then draw a sketch of the desired shape with the paste;
- blur the shape within the contour lines of the sketch with a brown pencil;
- take a photo of the result and show it to the client – it is often easier to evaluate the new look from the side, not in the mirror’s reflection.
Remember: everyone’s concept of beauty is different. It is important to hear and respect the wishes of your clients. And it is equally important to be able to convey your opinion and vision of the situation to the client in the most delicate and accessible way, to offer the best solution for this or that type of appearance.
Another tip that brings us back to what we talked about at the beginning of the article: it is important for masters to strive not to work “by the pattern”.
On the Internet, you can often find the opinion that “the eyebrowist is not a profession”. One of the arguments of the haters sounds something like this: “What is difficult to draw everyone the same eyebrows?”
If we put aside emotion and look the truth in the eye, we have to admit that such a problem does exist. Many masters, especially beginners, tend to work in a certain way – the way that was shown in training. And we really see on the streets and in photos on the Internet not unique girls, each of whom is beautiful in her own way, but a crowd of clones with the same eyebrows, lips and contouring.
Once again, the task of the master – not to stamp the same eyebrows to everyone, and find the perfect solution, the perfect shape for each individual client.
And if experience is a little lacking, we invite you to the author’s training “Artistic eyebrow design” at Innovator Beauty Academy. You will learn everything about how to properly build eyebrows taking into account the shape of the face and eyes, learn to make a markup in just 5 minutes, work with brow paste, a ruler for eyebrows and Leonardo’s compass. You will learn about different methods of eyebrow correction and how to correct eyebrows with wax and tweezers. You will also acquire a lot of other useful knowledge and skills. The class is also available in webinar format.